Kissa Poupée, Kanda-Nishikicho: A 56-Year-Old Coffee House Welcomed by French Dolls, and Its Special Curry | Photographer ELLI’s Town Walks #12

Kissa Poupée has been serving customers in Kanda-Nishikicho since 1970. Its name comes from the French word for doll, poupée. Photographer ELLI visited to see the special curry the founders received from the chef of a famous restaurant, and the Showa-era atmosphere the third-generation manager continues to protect. (Hon no Machi, May 2026 issue, “Town Walks” #12)

The nostalgic Showa-era interior
An interior full of nostalgic Showa-era charm (photos: Eri Ito)

The name “Poupée” comes from the French poupée, “doll.” The article explains its origins like this:

The shop was originally started by Mr. Hara’s grandmother, selling sweet buns and the like. In 1970 his aunts — two sisters — turned it into a kissaten, a traditional Japanese coffee house. As befitted two young sisters, they decorated it with dolls, and the name comes from the French poupée, “doll.” The beautiful sisters who ran it became the talk of the town and business boomed, but when they married, Mr. Hara’s father took it over.

The exterior also has Showa-era character
The exterior has Showa-era character too

The current manager, Naoki Hara, is the third generation. He left a career in architectural design to take over the shop, and has served as PTA president at the local elementary school and as an officer of the neighborhood association — a trusted figure in the community.

Naoki Hara, third-generation manager
Third-generation manager Naoki Hara

The signature dish is an authentic European-style special curry whose recipe the founders received from the chef of a famous restaurant of the day. The original spaghetti “Milanese,” with a garlicky salted-butter flavor, is also winning ever more devoted fans.

The hugely popular special curry and rice
The hugely popular special curry and rice
The famous spaghetti Milanese
The famous spaghetti Milanese

And it is not only the flavors that this shop has protected for half a century.

Flavor is not the only thing kept since the founding. As a coffee house, it still welcomes smokers. Lunchtime is non-smoking, but the second floor is open to them, and it seems to be popular.

Second-floor seating where smoking is allowed at lunchtime
Second-floor seating, where smoking is allowed at lunchtime

During the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 the shop faced the threat of closing, but it pulled through thanks to the many regulars who kept coming. A Showa-era interior and exterior, and dishes that never change. The full article and photos are in the May issue PDF.

Kissa Poupée
Address: 3-13-11 Kanda-Nishikicho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Phone: 03-3295-9746
Founded: 1970 / Closed Sundays and national holidays
Nearest stations: Takebashi Station (Tokyo Metro), Jimbocho Station

▶Shop page (map and related articles)

Photographer ELLI’s Town Walks: all installments

▶See every installment and a map of the shops ELLI has visited on the series page

◀Previous: #11 Yamagataya Paper Shop
▶Next: #13 Ochanomizu Hotel Shoryukan

#1 Luncheon
#2 The Adirondack Café
#3 Hasebe
#4 Toyodaen & Daisen
#5 @Wonder
#6 Book House Cafe
#7 Kissa Hotaka
#8 Mamekobo
#9 Banuken
#10 Asanoya
#11 Yamagataya Paper Shop
#12 Kissa Poupée (this article)
#13 Ochanomizu Hotel Shoryukan
#14 Kanda Awahei
#15 Daiki Shoe Store
#16 Sakaiya Sports
#17 Fuji Record Sha

Eri Ito (ELLI)
Photographer. In Hon no Machi she writes the series “Photographer ELLI’s Town Walks,” visiting a shop in Kanda, Ochanomizu or Jimbocho every month.


This article introduces installment 12 of “Photographer ELLI’s Town Walks” (photos and text by Eri Ito), published in the May 2026 issue (Vol. 13) of Hon no Machi, the community salon magazine of Kanda, Ochanomizu and Jimbocho.

▶Read the May 2026 issue of Hon no Machi (PDF, in Japanese)

Founded in 1980, Hon no Machi brings you the latest from Book Town every month, together with Jimbocho’s bookstores, publishers, cafés and galleries.

▶Back issues of our series are being published on our note page (in Japanese)

日本語で読む — Read this article in Japanese